Le Point

Spirits, the hour of the iconoclasts

A new generation of producers is reinventing the codes, imposing their creations and seducing amateurs.

BY OLIVIER BOMPAS

With Scottish production leading the way, followed by Ireland, whisky remains the French's favorite spirit. In a major development, France now has its place on the podium and ranks third in the hearts of enthusiasts, who favor French whiskies with a hint of terroir. Since 2010, David Roussier has been at the helm of the Warenghem distillery, located in Lannion, Brittany, one of the two leading regions, along with Alsace, for French whisky production. Well known for its Armorik brand, it was the first to offer one entirely made in France. David Roussier recalls: " In the 1970s, small spirits and aperitif brands suffered from the arrival of mass distribution and the establishment of major brands. My father-in-law then produced chouchen; the distillery had to be saved. The shift towards whisky is legitimate; Brittany shares its Celtic roots with Scotland. We started with a blend, a blended whisky." Making single malt from the start didn't make sense, it's a more complex whisky: for that you have to age the eaux-de-vie, and that takes time. " The range has since expanded, with whiskies among the best in French production. Next up: a cooperage recently opened in the center of Lannion—partly supplied with Breton oak—the revitalization of liqueur production, the house's historic activity, and the opening of a Scottish-style "whisky pub." Everything to keep up with changing demand.

" Our aim is to think outside the box. That's the freshness of not being part of the establishment." Nicolas Julhiet, La Conspiration

In the world of spirits, while well-known names with international reputations remain a staple, newcomers are increasingly appealing. According to the annual survey conducted by Ipsos for Whisky Live Paris (a leading international trade fair), enthusiasts, particularly those aged 30-40, prioritize, in order, taste and quality, the product's origin, principles related to corporate social responsibility (CSR), and the brand. Many entrepreneurs, often with unique backgrounds, have understood this well, like Ilde Pinna. Based in Chambéry, she has created a remarkable limoncello made from Sardinian lemons and, using only the zest, has initiated a virtuous circle by selling the pulp to ice cream makers. Her project: to plant lemon trees in Savoie and develop agritourism.

For their part, Nicolas Julhiet and five of his friends are the creators of La Conspiration. A brand born from the somewhat childish idea of ​​buying a barrel of Scotch whisky together, " to see how it would age... We never bought the barrel ," Nicolas Julhiet jokes. " However, we set up a micro-distillery, acquired two stills and launched a slightly crazy project. " Since none of the six partners are in the business, it was Jérôme Lefèvre, a Champagne winemaker and distiller, who took charge of the production side. Two years after the launch of the project, a range of highly original spirits was born, including three gins of remarkable precision and aromatic purity. " La Conspiration is a step aside from the world of spirits ," explains Nicolas Julhiet. "We want to experiment, to offer different sensory experiences." We are very demanding about the quality of the ingredients; a gin can be a very good tasting eau-de-vie. Our desire is to think outside the box. That's the freshness of not being part of the establishment. "